|
broads
Early Summer on the Broads - Whitsun 2006
Eileen Perrins - “Serendib” Sun Odyssey 34.2
The Broads are in both Suffolk and Norfolk, and we based ourselves at the Suffolk entrance to the Broads at Oulton Broad, Lowestoft. Having spent two years with the boat based long distances from home, Morlaix in Brittany and Portishead, Bristol, we decided that we wanted a cruising ground closer to our home in Ipswich. We made the delivery from Portishead at the end of our summer holiday the previous summer and then based Serendib in the newly opened Lowestoft Haven Marina. The Marina provides excellent friendly facilities and is conveniently placed for the Broads as well as the East Coast destinations of Southwold/Walberswick, the Ore/Alde and Harwich harbour with all its anchorages and Marinas and also is a only a day sail to Holland. We had enjoyed some lovely autumn cruises to Southwold and along the Waveney River passing through Mutford Lock.
For the summer season of 2006 we paid £200 for the annual Broads licence, which would give us unlimited access to the Broads and free overnight moorings at its many stagings. As we had the mast taken down in Lowestoft during the winter, this would also allow us through most of the many fixed bridges, so reduced Serendib to an impromtu “Motor boat” for the week of the Whitsun bank holiday to fully explore the Broads.
After passing through Mutford Lock in drizzle the weather for the week did not look promising and so it proved to be set in for the week. Still we made the most of it visiting as many parts of the Broads as we possibly could, our main restriction proved to be the draft, but we found most of the rivers and Broads were accessible to us, typically ranging from 1.5 to 3m.
Our first night was a make shift mooring on the bank just North of Stokesby on the River Bure, having passed through Yarmouth at low water. You need to get this right as the tide runs up to 4 knots, it is narrow through the bridge and you may well meet hire boats who tend to keep to the middle of the river. There is a yacht station at Yarmouth but as the tide ebbs fast we decided to keep going to avoid being hit by hire boats which are big and heavy, but in fairness they were usually helmed by responsible folk, however the boats do not belong to them while ours did…
We carried some stakes with us just in case we had to make our own moorings, which we did occasionally.
Moving on up the Bure with spray hood down to go under the Acle Bridge, then tucked into the bank for an hour as the Thurne mouth regatta rook over the river. It was perfect weather and a sight to see the Broads yachts in full sail, very exciting for them, too much adrenalin for us!
Thurne Mouth Regatta
From the Bure we branched North to the Ant, a much smaller river than the Bure, and tied up at the Broads staithe at How Hill, one of the loveliest places we found on the Broads. The grounds of How Hill house run along the river banks with beautiful colourful shrubs in full bloom at the end of May.
Gardens at How Hill
Just at the end of the staithe is Mole Hole cottage with free entry, kept up by the Broads Authority, this is what a typical eel catchers cottage would have looked like. There is a nature walk here also which is well worth a visit, and a short walk up the bank will take you to two wind pumps, while we were walking a barn owl flew over the marsh, we also saw many marsh harriers and several other water birds with their new broods.
Our first proper broad was Barton Broad, similar to the meers of Holland, sailing boats are at last able to move about without too much impediment. We stopped at the quiet staithe of Barton Turf, at which water is available courtesy of the parish council for £1 donation. It is worth filling up wherever you see a water tap as most of the Staithes do not have it.
At Barton Turf we packed a picnic got the bikes out and cycled round to Neatishead and then Irstead where we sat at the staithe eating freshly baked rolls and pate. On the return journey we had a look at the board walk designed for wheelchair users with wonderful views over Barton Broad.
Moving on up the Ant we stopped at Sutton and rode across to Stalham in drizzling rain, where we found Internet access in the library, to keep up with daughter, travelling in New Zealand, to wish her happy birthday. Next stop to almost the limit of navigation up the Ant, trying to go under the Wayford bridge we ran out of water so decided to move out of the Ant under the Ludham Bridge and right into the Bure, which is a much larger river than the Ant.
On to Sutton then Cockshoot. At Cockshoot there is a foot ferry across the river to the pub, the Broads Staithe being the opposite side of the river. All of the Riverside pubs offer moorings to patrons, some are free others make a charge usually about £5, some you have to moor stern on which is always difficult for us with a keel, so we tended to stick to the Broads staithes where we could lie alongside.
At Cockshoot as at many other moorings the Broads Authority have done an excellent job making boarded nature walks through the marshes. Looking at the map in the evening we noticed a visitors centre and pub at Woodbastwick which we assumed (rightly) would be the micro brewery of Woodefordes. The centre was closed (it was 7pm) but pub wasn,t so enjoyed a pint of Woodefordes finest, before cycling back for bottle of wine and dinner on board.
We decided a visit to the Broads wasn't complete without a visit to Wroxham, so on a cold wet morning we motored up past Horning then to Wroxham, which we decided, was the limit of our navigation, looking at the bridge. As it is also the main centre for hire boats on the Northern Broads there was nowhere to stop so we continued down a wet and cold River Bure to overnight on the staithe at Thurne Mouth. A short walk takes you to the village of Thurne with its medieval church, pub with grocery shop and gift shop.
As it was now Thursday, it was time to move back down through Yarmouth so we could have a day in Norwich. Going through the riverside of Norwich you can see the redevelopment taking place, old warehouses being developed into apartments as well as new build.
There is a free mooring near the cinema and Old Orleans, but we carried on to the Norwich yacht station which is right in the middle of the city, just a short walk from the centre and the Cathedral. (cost £5 between 9am-6pm or £10 overnight) It has all facilities including fairly new shower and toilets. Moved out of Norwich for the night as we wanted to get as far down the Yare as possible ,found a space on a staithe opposite the Ferry inn at Surlingham.
Saturday morning saw a very early start for the captain (4.30 am) as he was anxious to get through the New cut past Reedham with some water in it rather than having to go though Breydon water. Then tied up at Somerleyton, one of our most favourite spots on the whole Broads, for breakfast. Had booked dinner at the Dukes Arms so spent a perfect day, riding up to the village shop for newspaper, eggs and boiled sweets, reading the paper a leisurely lunch and then dinner in the pub.
Next Morning saw us through Mutford Lock and safely tied up back in Lowestoft Haven Marina.
More broads views
Eileen Perrins "Serendib"
|