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Ensenada to San Diego
Tornadoes, Whales, and Nuclear Subs by Roland Melzer
Sailing is a human activity. (We like to think it is all about
nature, the great outdoors, the challenge, the adventure, the competition,
the technical difficulty; but in truth this is not so.)
Our boat is a Jeanneau Voyage 12.5, a 1989. We had it down in Ensenada
Mexico for a little over 3 months; Ensenada is only about a 1 - 1.5 hour
drive south of the US border. It is also a great city to go and visit,
since by far it doesn't have as much of the border town tourist flavor, and
is a real working town with industry, larger harbor, active fishing, etc.
We were careful with food, and so didn't need both of the heads on the
boat.
And so it was time to bring it back up to San Diego. Planning the trip, we
found it to be about 55 - 60 nm and so we estimated about 8 hours.
Watching the weather, the forecast was clear and apparently this weekend
was a clear window between storms. None of the various sources predicted
anything challenging coming, there was a high pressure center over the
Pacific about 400 - 800 miles off the coast, which usually means that the
storms coming from the North Pacific (which is where the originate on the
west coast during winter) would be pushed north of Southern California.
And winds should be from the west, a typical pattern. Here are some of
the sites from which I gathered information:
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/afos/LAX/CWF/LAXCWFSGX
http://meteora.ucsd.edu/climate/calif_marine_fcst.southern
http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/station_page.phtml?$station=46025
(this last one is quite interesting, it has almost-real-time sea conditions from a buoy near Catalina Island; most of the weather received in San Diego goes over this location a few hours before it arrives in San Diego).
The conclusion was either:
1. swells 10-12 ft, wind waves 6 ft. and winds 15-25 knots.
or
2. swells 6 ft., wind waves 2-3 ft., and winds 10-15 knots.
These sites aren't 100% accurate. But we concluded that the more
challenging forecast was for a couple hundred miles offshore, since the
less challenging forecast was labeled "coastal". We would be sailing only
3-5 miles offshore the whole way. We got the stronger conditions.
Crew: myself, Pat my lovely and capable first mate, two 12 year old girls,
and my son at 9 years old. Our 17 year old daughter declined, but to
encourage her I offered to change the boat name to Boat-Mall, or
Boat-Party. We settled on "MALL-PARTY-boat", but I couldn't afford $135
for new Coast Guard documentation.
The plan was to leave when enough light to leave the Ensenada breakwater
without using any floodlights, so at 6:40 am we were underway. We expected
to motor for a few hours in the morning, then some sailing when the wind
came up. About 15 min. in the journey I could see the weather was going to
be a bit more stormy than a typical clear winter SoCal day. An hour later
we saw a vertical cloud, hanging down from the otherwise flat cumulus type
formations. And someone says "I wonder if that is how tornadoes start".
Well this is the type of curious and exploratory attitude that we
encourage in children, no? However it got longer, and longer, and then the
usual: "Dad, do something!". My first instinct was to satisfy the
curiosity of these growing minds and change course for a closer look.
Remember that Rousmaniere says: "If it doesn't feel right, don't do it".
I of course converted this into "If it feels OK, go for it". However,
like boat instruments which are intended only as a guide, so are the formal
rules of logic. In any case as this funnel cloud stopped before it hit the
water, and then disappeared, and then two more formed, we held our course,
as the wind got stronger and the swells higher.
At about this time, the 3 kids started showing that lackluster look of
early seasickness. At least their curiosity, ever so dangerous,
diminished. We hoisted the main, for stability and a little power
advantage, wind was at about 45 degrees off the bow, and variable. I was
dressing in the fifth layer of clothing, gloves, etc. and having a ball.
The kids of course (by instinct again) discovered that given their
condition, the cockpit was much more pleasant than down below. So here
come the blankets, coats, pillows, chips, drinks, books, walkman, and
143,867 other items to make their trip more pleasant. The cockpit starting
looking like a slumber party; luckily I had my feet planted before all this
junk arrived.
And so we went on, occasionally we spotted dolphins, then came one of my
proudest moments. My 9 year old son said he was going to be sick. He
moved to the stern, unloaded his burden, he hit only fiberglass, and no
teak, then said "I feel better now". Wow, he did it like a man, was I ever
proud! We know sailing can be relaxing, but our relaxation was metered by
that repeated challenge to parents: "when are we going to be there?" As
the wind built, on the nose, I reinforced that my 8 hour estimate was
exactly that, an estimate. Immediately feeling a bit more social, my
daughter asked: "I know we've discussed it, but Dad what would you do if I
fell overboard". I suggested it was the right time to practice.
About 1/2 way, we were quite distant from any ports, no other boats in
sight, and we saw a few whale spouts about 100 years dead ahead. "Get
close Dad"!. Yeah, right. For Christmas I received the book "In the Heart
of the Sea". I finished it in a few days; it is the story about the
whaling ship Essex, true story, that was rammed and sunk in the 1800s by a
sperm whale in the Pacific ocean. Herman Melville based his novel Moby
Dick on this true story. -- We were in the same ocean. So logic kicks in
again: same ocean, whales migrating south, we are heading north, spouts,
they are near the surface, our dingy is not inflated, no boats in sight,
and of course the whales definitely hate me. Trying to be courteous, I did
change course to veer around them, thankfully they preferred to ignore us,
and not start trouble.
Then around 13:00 the wind got stronger, the waves higher, and the spray
over the bow started. I love kids, and always want to help them. Here is a
typical interaction:
"Dad I'm getting wet".
"Then go below"
"No!"
"Then stay up here"
"No!"
Unfortunately I forgot to keep the phone number for my Philosophy of Logic professor.
Land ho, San Diego is in sight! Oh good, we should be there any second,
after another 3-4 hours. Crossing into the US took a great deal of time.
It started with: "There is the US, so we must be in US waters". I
suggested this was erroneous logic, and that although there isn't a line
painted on the ocean, we would know for sure when the fence on shore was
clearly a straight line directly abeam. Remarkably, although this time we
were not in a long waiting line, getting to the US took as long as the wait
at the border while driving across in a car. To add even more excitement,
at the line was a coast guard cutter, or immigration service boat, floating
at the border obviously waiting to capture us. As we crossed he started
moving in the same direction, and parallel to us. "Dad, do something, they
are going to board us!". My response at this point: "Huh, du wut?", as
the wind and swells were howling.
As we entered San Diego bay, a very loud fog horn was ominous. A closer
look revealed a giant submarine obviously nuclear, heading out as we were
heading in the channel. Nothing dangerous, but we have never seen a sub
underway so close to us. Quite a sight. My crew figured that a war had
started somewhere in the world, and we didn't know about it, since we were
cruising for such a long time without any access to news reports.
Finally we are nearing the customs dock, and everybody comes more alive.
It is about 16:30 and we have barely an hour to clear customs and get to
the new slip. The customs guy was great, he didn't want to "know nuthin'
about nuthin', just sign here". Luckily his dog didn't find the Cuban
cigars and fireworks; smelly stuff, it probably smelled them from the dock,
but 5:00 was quittin' time for the dog also.
And we pull into the slip with 10 minutes of light left. Yes! We made it.
And then it started again: "I'm hungry". "I'm tired". "Can we go home
now". "Let's stop at In-and-Out Burgers".
"Ok guys, congratulations, that was great, you are the best crew a father
could ever have!. We'll have to do that again some time". Once in the
water, I recalled that I neglected to teach them their response if I was
thrown overboard.
Fast food hamburgers never tasted so good.
Roland Melzer
COPYRIGHT © 2001
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